Ο ΜΟΥΣΤΟΣ
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"Αγαθόν τι πέφηνε και η συκομαγίς, εν η πολλών ομού συμπεφυρμένων, ουκ εστί το μεν εκλέγεσθαι, το δε απεκλέγεσθαι, αλλά ομού πάντα συμμεμιγμένα καταθοινάσθαι εις κέρδος τω κτισαμένω".
(Θεσσαλονίκης Ευσταθίου, Τα Λαογραφικά, σχόλια του Φαίδωνος Κουκουλέ, Τομ. Α΄, εκδ. Ετ. Μακ. Σπουδών, Αθήνα, 1950).
"Καλό πράγμα", θεωρούσε τη συκομαϊδα ο Επίσκοπος Θεσσαλονίκης Ευστάθιος που έζησε τον 12ο αιώνα, και στον οποίο οφείλουμε πολλές πληροφορίες για τη διατροφή των συγχρόνων του στην πρώιμη βυζαντινή περίοδο. Το σύκο που αποτελεί το βασικό υλικό αυτού του παρασκευάσματος ήταν το αγαπημένο φρούτο των αρχαίων Ελλήνων, που το παραγέμιζαν με καρύδια και σουσάμι σαν τη σημερινή παστελαριά της Χίου. Αυτό που εντυπωσιάζει σ" αυτό το φρούτο είναι ότι αποτελεί από μόνο του "γλυκό" εκ φύσεως. Σήμερα δεν τυχαίνει της ίδιας προτίμησης όπως παλαιότερα, οι δε νέοι σχεδόν το αγνοούν. Η συκομαϊδα(1), ένα λαϊκό σοφό ιδιοπαρασκεύασμα έχει μια έντονη και πολύπλευρη προσωπικότητα αποτελώντας ταυτόχρονα ιδιωματικό μεζεδάκι για ρακή και ταυτόχρονα έξοχο μυρωδάτο γλυκό. Συναντάται δε σε διάφορες εκδοχές από την Κέρκυρα μέχρι την Κύπρο και τη Θεσσαλία. Η λαϊκή του εκδοχή θέλει τη μάζα του σύκου να πρωταγωνιστεί με μόνα μυρωδικά τα κανελογαρύφαλλα. Η κυρίαρχη όμως γεύση του ξεραμένου σύκου και η συμπυκνωμένη του γλυκύτητα επιδέχεται και άλλες παραλαγές αρκεί η δοσολογία να μην παραβιάζει το μέτρο. Έτσι στην Κύπρο βάζουν πιπέρι σε μια αξιοθαύμαστη ισορροπία μεζέ – επιδόρπιο. Το ίδιο και στην Κέρκυρα. Στην Κεφαλονιά ζυμώνουν τα σύκα με πετιμέζι. Στα Αμπελάκια "τυλίγουν" τη συκομαϊδα σε καβουρντισμένο αλεύρι που "κλείνει" προστατευτικά τη ζύμη και αποτρέπει τη διάβρωσή της.
Οι συκομαϊδες παρασκευάζονται αυτή την εποχή, τυλίγονται σε αμπελόφυλλα ή τοποθετούνται σε τενεκεδένια κουτιά με λεμονόφυλλα φύλλα δάφνης ή λουϊζας ανάμεσά τους και διατηρούνται μέχρι το επόμενο καλοκαίρι αν στο μεταξύ…δε φαγωθούν.
(1) Η λέξη είναι σύνθετη από το σύκο και τη μάζα, δηλαδή το αποτέλεσμα του ζυμώματος. Το αρχαίο ρήμα μάσσω σημαίνει ζουλώ, πιέζω, μαλάζω. Από την αρχαιοελληνική ρίζα προέρχεται και η γαλλική λέξη massage και masseur, καθώς και το ρήμα masser = συσσωρεύω.
Ψιλοκόβουμε 1 κιλό ξερά σύκα. Τα μουλιάζουμε για να μπορέσουμε να τα "ζυμώσουμε" μ" ένα ελαφρύ ζαχαρόνερο ή πετιμέζι ή ούζο ή τσίπουρο και μέλι ή μέλι με λίγο πετιμέζι. (Ένας ωραίος συνδυασμός είναι μέλι με ούζο και πετιμέζι). Τα υγρά που θα επιλέξουμε τα ρίχνουμε σιγά-σιγά έως ότου "λασπώσουν" τα σύκα και πλάθονται σε μπαλάκια. Τότε ρίχνουμε 300 γρ. χοντροτριμμένα και ελαφρά ψημένα καρύδια και 300 γρ. ψημένα και τριμμένα αμύγδαλα. Ψήνουμε στο φούρνο της κουζίνας ½ κιλό σουσάμι και απ" αυτό "σπάμε" στο γουδί για να δώσει το άρωμά του, περίπου 200-300 γρ. που προσθέτουμε στη μάζα των σύκων. Ζυμώνουμε τη συκόμαζα. Προσθέτουμε τέλος τα αρώματα της προτίμησής μας (ξύσμα πορτοκαλιού, λεμονιού ή γκρέιπ φρουτ και κυρίως μανταρίνι), κανέλα, γαρύφαλλα και μοσχοκάρυδο σκόνη, ελαφρά ψημένους και αλεσμένους σπόρους μάραθου, άνθος κανέλας σκόνη και ξηρό τζίντζερ. Ζυμώνουμε και πλάθουμε σε σχήμα μπιφτεκιού ή μακρουλό και τυλίγουμε αντίστοιχα τις συκομαϊδες σε τριμμένα αμύγδαλα ή καρύδια ή παπαρουνόσπορο ή καβουρντισμένο σουσάμι. Πριν κλείσουμε τις συκομαϊδες σε τενεκεδένια κουτιά, τις αφήνουμε στον αέρα ή και στον ήλιο για 2-3 μέρες να στεγνώσουν.
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